Chasing Mavericks

& Frosty: ’We all come from the sea, but we are not all of the sea. Those of us who are, we children of the tides, must return to it again and again...’

& Frosty: How old are you? What, six, seven?
    Jay: Eight. And three quarters, sir.
    Frosty: Well, you just used up your entire allotment of dumb luck.

& Frosty: Here’s a novel idea. On your next little date, why don’t you go to the arcade? Or pee-wee golfing. Or something that doesn’t involve getting you killed.

& Kim: He likes to time the waves.
    Frosty: What? What do you mean, time the waves?
    Jay: Um, to see if the swell is building or dropping. The more seconds between them each wave in a set, it means it’s getting bigger.
    Frosty: Who taught you that?
    Jay: Nobody, sir. Just figured it out.

& Frosty: Surfing normal waves is about how you perform when everything goes right. Now, big wave surfing, that’s a different ball game. That’s about how you perform when everything goes wrong. One bump off the face of that wave, and you’re hitting the water like concrete at 50 miles an hour. And you got a thousand tons of water coming down on top of you. It’s knocking you senseless, ripping you apart and pushing you down to a place that is so deep and so dark, you don’t want to be there.
    Jay: So why you do it?

---

& Brenda: There are all kinds of sons, Frosty, you know? Some are born to you and some just occur to you.

& Frosty: This little, uh, program is all about building what I like to call the four pillars of a solid human foundation. Understand?
    Jay: Yes, sir.
    Frosty: How could you? I haven’t even told you what they are.

& Frosty: Steady rhythm. Drive and glide.

& Frosty: The four pillars of the human foundation are the physical, the mental, the emotional and the spiritual. Though I admit to being a little bit wobbly in that department.

& Frosty: Today’s lesson was about the power of observation. Simple fact is you got two choices. You can fight things head-on or you can observe the laws of nature. Because if you look hard enough, there’s always a way through it.

& Jay: ... Forty.
    Mom: What are you doing?
    Jay: Four pillars of a solid human foundation. Fifty.
    Mom: Mm-hm.

& Frosty: What happened?
    Jay: What do you mean? I just saw a 15-foot shark.
    Frosty: I’m sure it scared the piss out of you, but that wasn’t what I asked. Why’d you panic?
    Jay: Just fear, I guess.
    Frosty: All right, well, one thing you got to know, fear and panic are two separate emotions. Fear is healthy, panic is deadly. Because when this place is firing and I’m talking about 30-, 40-foot waves, it’s all about fear. But you panic out there, like you just did, you die.

& Jay: Well, if you’re scared to death, how do you not panic?
    Frosty: By identifying the fear and what it is you’re afraid of. Not just out there, but in life. Welcome to your next essay.

& Jay: Frosty, what are you doing? What are you doing? You can’t just walk away from everything!
    Frosty: Why not? Huh? Why not? She’s all I had, Jay. She’s all I ever knew.

& Frosty: Happy birthday, Jay. She’s all yours.
    Jay: I don’t know what to say.
    Frosty: Just stay low, go fast.

& Frosty: ’We all come from the sea, but we are not all of the sea. Those of us who are, we children of the tides, must return to it again and again until the day we don’t come back, leaving behind only that which was touched along the way. You just got to appreciate everything.’

& Jay Moriarity: I think that’s one of the most important things in life, is just really appreciating it. Because, you know, we only get to do this once. And it’s not for a long time, so enjoy it.

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