Tommy Caldwell: Imagine an Olympic-gold-medal-level athletic achievement that, if you don't get that gold medal, you're gonna die. That's pretty much what free soloing El Cap is like.
Alex Honnold: Look, I don't wanna fall off and die either, but there's a satisfaction to challenging yourself and doing something well. That feeling is heightened when you're for sure facing death.
Alex Honnold: You can't make a mistake. If you're seeking perfection, free soloing is as close as you can get. And, uh, it does feel good to feel perfect, like, for a brief moment.
Alex Honnold: My friends are like, "Oh, that'd be terrible," but if I kill myself in an accident, they'll be like, "Oh, that was too bad," but like life goes on, you know, like they'll be fine.
Alex Honnold: ... Then the down climb to the Hollow Flake. And then the Monster Offwidth, which is super physical, difficult style of climbing. When you're in the Monster Offwidth, some part of you is always being crushed in the mountain. Imagine like the worst type of Pilates class in the whole world, somebody like flogging as you do it, and occasionally like sandpapering skin off your body, telling you to hold the position until you freakin' vomit, and if you lose the position you die.
Alex Honnold: ... Then the down climb to the Hollow Flake. And then the Monster Offwidth, which is super physical, difficult style of climbing. When you're in the Monster Offwidth, some part of you is always being crushed in the mountain. Imagine like the worst type of Pilates class in the whole world, somebody like flogging as you do it, and occasionally like sandpapering skin off your body, telling you to hold the position until you freakin' vomit, and if you lose the position you die.
Alex Honnold: The Enduro Corner, in and of itself, would have been the most difficult part of virtually any big solo I've done. Your feet aren't on any specific holds. What makes your feet stay to the wall is the amount of pressure that you pull with your hands. The harder you pull with your hands, the more your feet stick. The most demanding for your arms on the whole route. And you've climbed 2,500 feet to get to the Enduro Corner, so you're pretty fatigued. But the piece that I've always worried about the most is the crux, the hardest part.
Alex Honnold: To get past the crux, you have climb either the Boulder Problem or the Teflon Corner. 2,000 off the ground, each of which I've fallen off many times with a rope. The Teflon Corner, which is basically like a 90-degree corner of glass, which is ultra-slippery, just fills me with terror. Pushing against the two walls of it, with my feet on glass, my palms on glass, and trying to make these little micro adjustments to keep my balance centered so that I can push evenly on all four sides of it. And then I imagine 2,500 feet of air beneath my feet, you're, like, that's just a crazy thing to think about.
Alex Honnold: The alternative is the Boulder Problem. But the Boulder Problem has a 10-foot section that's incredibly difficult. It's a very intricate sequence. You've got your right hand on a crimp, left hand on a side pole, and then you put your right foot onto this dimple thing. Right hand goes up to a small down-pulling crimp, left foot goes into a little dish, and then you drive up off the left foot into the thumb press. That's the worst hold on the entire route. So, you get maybe half your thumb on the hold. Then you roll your two fingers over the thumb, switch your feet, left foot stems out to this really bad sloping black foothold. Switch your thumbs. And then reach out left to a big sloping bread loaf type hold that feels kind of grainy. From there, you either karate kick or double-dyno to an edge on the opposite wall. In some ways, it makes more sense to do the big two-handed jump because you're jumping to a good edge so there's actually something to catch. But the idea of jumping without a rope seems completely outrageous, if you miss it, that's that. But then the karate kick always feels like you're falling into the other wall, which also feels outrageous for soloing.
Tommy Caldwell: If you're pushing the edge, eventually you find the edge. But then there's just some things that you're, like, well,
you just have to push that far because they're just, they're just that cool. And El Cap is that cool.
Tommy Caldwell: There's incremental advances that happen in all kinds of things, but every once in a while there's just this iconic leap, soloing El Cap, if he pulls this off, is this quantum leap.
Alex Honnold: It's like always about, like, excellence and perfection. And I was certainly raised that way, you know, that you need to, you need to perform. It's also just like kind of rad because you're doing something for the first time in human history.
Mikey Schaefer: Let's hope it's a low gravity day.
Alex Honnold: For me it's all about performance. The thing is anybody can be happy and cozy. Nothing good happens in the world by being happy and cozy. You know, like nobody achieves anything great because they're happy and cozy.
--
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Alex Honnold: Look, I don't wanna fall off and die either, but there's a satisfaction to challenging yourself and doing something well. That feeling is heightened when you're for sure facing death.
Alex Honnold: You can't make a mistake. If you're seeking perfection, free soloing is as close as you can get. And, uh, it does feel good to feel perfect, like, for a brief moment.
Alex Honnold: My friends are like, "Oh, that'd be terrible," but if I kill myself in an accident, they'll be like, "Oh, that was too bad," but like life goes on, you know, like they'll be fine.
Alex Honnold: ... Then the down climb to the Hollow Flake. And then the Monster Offwidth, which is super physical, difficult style of climbing. When you're in the Monster Offwidth, some part of you is always being crushed in the mountain. Imagine like the worst type of Pilates class in the whole world, somebody like flogging as you do it, and occasionally like sandpapering skin off your body, telling you to hold the position until you freakin' vomit, and if you lose the position you die.
Alex Honnold: ... Then the down climb to the Hollow Flake. And then the Monster Offwidth, which is super physical, difficult style of climbing. When you're in the Monster Offwidth, some part of you is always being crushed in the mountain. Imagine like the worst type of Pilates class in the whole world, somebody like flogging as you do it, and occasionally like sandpapering skin off your body, telling you to hold the position until you freakin' vomit, and if you lose the position you die.
Alex Honnold: The Enduro Corner, in and of itself, would have been the most difficult part of virtually any big solo I've done. Your feet aren't on any specific holds. What makes your feet stay to the wall is the amount of pressure that you pull with your hands. The harder you pull with your hands, the more your feet stick. The most demanding for your arms on the whole route. And you've climbed 2,500 feet to get to the Enduro Corner, so you're pretty fatigued. But the piece that I've always worried about the most is the crux, the hardest part.
Alex Honnold: To get past the crux, you have climb either the Boulder Problem or the Teflon Corner. 2,000 off the ground, each of which I've fallen off many times with a rope. The Teflon Corner, which is basically like a 90-degree corner of glass, which is ultra-slippery, just fills me with terror. Pushing against the two walls of it, with my feet on glass, my palms on glass, and trying to make these little micro adjustments to keep my balance centered so that I can push evenly on all four sides of it. And then I imagine 2,500 feet of air beneath my feet, you're, like, that's just a crazy thing to think about.
Alex Honnold: The alternative is the Boulder Problem. But the Boulder Problem has a 10-foot section that's incredibly difficult. It's a very intricate sequence. You've got your right hand on a crimp, left hand on a side pole, and then you put your right foot onto this dimple thing. Right hand goes up to a small down-pulling crimp, left foot goes into a little dish, and then you drive up off the left foot into the thumb press. That's the worst hold on the entire route. So, you get maybe half your thumb on the hold. Then you roll your two fingers over the thumb, switch your feet, left foot stems out to this really bad sloping black foothold. Switch your thumbs. And then reach out left to a big sloping bread loaf type hold that feels kind of grainy. From there, you either karate kick or double-dyno to an edge on the opposite wall. In some ways, it makes more sense to do the big two-handed jump because you're jumping to a good edge so there's actually something to catch. But the idea of jumping without a rope seems completely outrageous, if you miss it, that's that. But then the karate kick always feels like you're falling into the other wall, which also feels outrageous for soloing.
Tommy Caldwell: If you're pushing the edge, eventually you find the edge. But then there's just some things that you're, like, well,
you just have to push that far because they're just, they're just that cool. And El Cap is that cool.
Tommy Caldwell: There's incremental advances that happen in all kinds of things, but every once in a while there's just this iconic leap, soloing El Cap, if he pulls this off, is this quantum leap.
Alex Honnold: It's like always about, like, excellence and perfection. And I was certainly raised that way, you know, that you need to, you need to perform. It's also just like kind of rad because you're doing something for the first time in human history.
Mikey Schaefer: Let's hope it's a low gravity day.
Alex Honnold: For me it's all about performance. The thing is anybody can be happy and cozy. Nothing good happens in the world by being happy and cozy. You know, like nobody achieves anything great because they're happy and cozy.
--
+ Quotes on the IMDb
+ Soundtracks
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